How to get a picture on a shirt

Added: Ry Cayer - Date: 02.05.2022 14:18 - Views: 46474 - Clicks: 6795

Do you want to print a photo on a T-shirt? Maybe a group shot of your family that will be a gift, or a new company logo that is colorful or photo-realistic. In all of these scenarios, your image should be optimized to get the best for a print. This blog post will show you exactly how to do that. Of course, our Art Department can do it for you— if you ask. Otherwise, I recommend using a free program like Photopea , which has all the features of Photoshop and can be used through your browser.

It may be a good idea to familiarize yourself with the basic functions , and the layout of the various tools before getting started. And if any of these graphics programs present too much of a learning curve, try using Pixlr X , a simple online photo editor which has most of the features that I will be showing you. Now on to optimizing! Even with the best artwork possible. Because of color modes, the image can never accurately translate to a printed image. Any honest print company should tell you that. Unhappiness comes from unmet expectations— and we want you to be happy.

The thing is, screen printing is not typically recommended for photographic images. And even when you do, it comes with its own set of challenges and drawbacks— only worth it for large orders. This post is focusing mostly on printing photos with digital, direct-to-garment printing , or DTG. Check out my post on screen printing vs DTG for more info on both decoration methods and how they compare to each other.

The example GIF below shows the disappointing difference in color modes when you convert. The colors in RGB mode computer are much more vivid and saturated because computer screens are lit from behind. The good news is there are things we can do to give you the best possible chance of getting the printed image to come close to what you see on the computer. For one thing, our digital printers do a better job than what you see above, by using two additional colors: bright red and green.

The following are my top ten steps to enhance and improve your photo, preparing it for a successful print. Here is the example photo I will be using to go through these tips, from the free stock photo site Pexels :. The image below is an actual-size example of a too-small size people submit to us on any given day. While it might look okay on the screen, there is a major problem: the resolution is very low.

Resolution is essentially how many pixels an image has. Typical web resolution is 72 PPI pixels per inch. The ideal resolution for printing is PPI or more— at full size. That last bit is crucial. Zoom in and take a look. A print will never be as clear and detailed as the original image, no matter how much you optimize it, or how well you print it.

So start out with the highest resolution possible, because it can only get worse. Below is what it should look like when you have a nice big file with a high resolution. Do you have a vector file rather than a raster? Or some other image format? For more about the various file types, read my in-depth blog post about submitting the best file types for printing.

Yes and no. Photoshop does a thing where it tries to compensate for scaling up a small image by adding a slight blur to the edges to mask the jagged pixels and artifacts. The zoomed-in image below shows you the difference. In the center, you can see how there is some smoothing, but the quality is still lousy. Obviously its no substitute for a high-res photo. So make that call, send that , do whatever you have to do to get it!

If you have multiple versions, compare them. Once you get the highest-resolution file available, it can be sized for printing. But there is one step to do first: cropping. Cropping is essentially chopping off areas of the image that are unneeded. With a well-thought-out crop, you can properly c subject, increase the size of the subject relative to the rest of the photo, and frame the subject in a way that makes the most sense. In my example crops above, there is no right answer.

Here is our image after cropping. We lose some background, but our subject is closer and taking up more relative space. In other words, how big or small the image will appear on the garment. Read my blog post about the sizing of standard print locations or check out my standard print locations infographic for a quick run down. For more in-depth information, read my post about layout tips which covers locations, placement, and sizing. This will ensure Photoshop works its magic to optimize the quality during the resizing.

In this case, by reducing the size of the image we are saving some space on our desktop and making the file easier to share. If you are upscaling your image, this will show an increase in file size. As I mentioned earlier, upscaling does not increase the quality of the image file. Photoshop will smooth out the edges as we increase the of pixels, but again, this is no substitute for starting with a higher quality image file. Touching up the image, also known as photo retouching, typically refers to fixing parts of it that have unwanted visual information.

This can be blemishes, cracks, spots, or any undesirable elements. This can be as minor as removing a scratch, or as major as what they do for magazine : smoothing faces, hair, body parts, and everything else in the picture. The key here is to not overdo it. There are many, many ways to go about this when you have lots of tools at your disposal. The Clone Stamp allows you to take one part of an image and put it over another part of the same image or over another part of any open document.

You can also paint part of one layer over another layer. To use it, click the stamp icon in your Photoshop tools panel. Make sure your brush is set to the size and hardness that are appropriate for the area you are working on— and be prepared to change the brush settings often as you work. You may need to go through some trial and error to get the brush settings right. This will typically but not always be an area very close to the part you are fixing, because the colors, levels, and textures will be the most similar. Do you see it? If you can make it look good close up, it will definitely look good zoomed out.

For more, check out this in-depth tutorial with tips on using the clone stamp. Try removing various objects or even people from an image and see if you can do it seamlessly without any noticeable difference. Practice makes perfect. Levels describe the range of highlights, mid-tones, and shadows in an image. This is a broad category, and there are many ways to adjust the levels.

While modern cameras, especially those on smartphones, have built-in features to optimize the levels of a picture you take, most photographs can use some basic level adjustments. When it comes to setting up a photo for printing , you may want to over-correct in some ways. In our example photo, there are some particularly dark areas of shadow that we should be worried about, especially in the faces.

The most basic adjustment of levels is unsurprisingly called Levels. Doing so will pull up a map showing you the current levels of the image, along with sliders to make adjustments. For most photos, but especially this one which is too dark, what you want to do is use the sliders to bump up the overall brightness, bringing details out of the shadows.

Move the far-right slider towards the left, and also the middle slider to the left, until it looks good. The far-left slider should only come over a little bit if at all to leave room. Remember, the print will be darker. On smartphone apps, this adjustment will typically be called Brightness, or Lightness, or Exposure. As you can see, the entire image is brightened up and details that were in the shadows became visible.

You might notice the photo gets a slightly washed-out appearance. And we can make the shadows richer as well. Do you know Rich Black? Another tool for adjusting tones and boosting contrast, curves is a more powerful version of levels.

Adobe has a more in-depth tutorial on curves for beginners. To begin adjusting, click somewhere along the diagonal line to create a control point. The most basic adjustment is to increase the overall brightness by lifting the center point up until you create a nice rounded hill. This is a good starting point to get a feel for what your photo will need. Once again though, every image is different and should require a different curve adjustment.

Add a couple more points, one towards the highlights and another towards the shadows and raise or lower them accordingly. Play around until it looks good. You can also click on the little hand icon and then click somewhere on the image to adjust that particular tone. Finally, drag the top and bottom endpoints inward to isolate adjustments to the main part of the histogram. We want to leave some room there because the print will get darker than the photo looks on screen. Generally, your photo should look a little brighter than normal. This is a standard curve adjustment for many images. In our example, the photo was mainly too dark hence the hill curve with the slope.

For a much more in-depth tutorial, read through this piece about understanding curves. These Photoshop tools allow you to lighten or darken an image in specific areas. The odd names are based on a traditional darkroom technique for regulating exposure on specific areas of a print. In Photoshop, you can specify your brush size and hardness, the exposure strength of the effect , and whether you are applying to the highlights, mid-tones, or shadows.

Keep in mind that the effect is continuous while you press down, unlike a paintbrush or some other tools.

How to get a picture on a shirt

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